Installing Crown Molding
We are getting ready to install 2 piece crown molding. The one should be easy to install, I believe you just nail it flat to the wall. However, the piece that angles is 5 1/4 inch. What angles do you use to cut this? Also, in our bathroom, we will have do something when we get to our mirror because the mirror goes all the way to the ceiling. How do you make an end piece?
To make an end piece, you pretend it is turning a corner, but it is really turning into the wall. As far as the angle to cut it, there are two ways. The first is to put it into your miter-box or miter saw at the angle it goes on the wall, and then cut it from the top at a 45 degree angle. The second way is (harder) to check and see the angle it sits on your wall. Some crown molds go up on your wall at a 45 degree angle to the ceiling and the wall. Some of them go at a 30/60 degree. My miter saw has a little cheat sheet that tells me what angles I lay the mold flat on my table bed in order to end up with a perfect corner joint, and it is all dependent on what angle it fits up into the ceiling/wall at. I am currently stalling on a project because my crown mold is about 7" wide for a tall foyer, and I don't have a big enough miter box to do it!
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Help how to my corners to match up?
You need to cut a compound angle to make the corners. The angle on the face is 22 1/2 (half the 45 degrees that they are angled against the corner) and the angle on the edges is 45.
Crown Molding and plaster walls
Can anyone tell me the best way to attach crown molding to plaster walls...?
I had problems finding the studs and keeping the molding straight. I made angle brackets,2X4 with the correct wall angle , attached them to the studs, and then just nailed the Crown to the brackets, Much easier to deal with. At the corners or joints, I liquid nailed the brackets up and this gave me a good nailer even without studs. Crown Molding is not for the faint hearted, but this made it much more manageable.
Another idea: A stud finder with a 2 inch nail finder.
Still another thought: They are attached the same way to drywall walls. You have to locate the studs and ceiling joists and fasten the molding to them.
OK - I have read different suggestions regarding installing crown molding on an inside corner. Most say something like "the first piece is blunt against the wall, the second is a miter cut, then use a coping saw and follow the pattern of the molding to make the fit". My molding is quite intricate - I'm not that good with a coping saw. Am I missing something or do I need to hire a professional carpenter?
The first cut needs to be turned up side down and cut at a 45 degree, then you can scribe the moulding with a coping saw to the cut needed. When you flip over the moulding (right side up) the moulding will butt up to the molding. If the moulding is going to be painted just 45 degree the joint upside down and fill the inside cornor with putty .
When hanging the molding I heard it was best to cope it to fit and inside corner. Don't quite understand how to do that.
I am not sure that you need to cope cove molding for inside corners. I think a butt joint with the compound miter cut to account for the angle of the cove (45 degrees) and the corner will work correctly. Practice this cut with some scrap to make sure you are cutting it right... but it should be 22 1/2 degrees across the face and 45 degrees on the edge.
To cope the joint you cut one flat and square and the other one is cut with a cut that matches the contour of the other. By placing the one piece up against the other you can draw the outline you will cut with a coping saw such that when it is cut and placed against the other piece, it matches up with the contoured face of the other.
If the molding you are mounting is cove molding and it attached at an angle to the wall... then cut the compound miter... if it is flat you can cope the end to fit flush.
The baseboard molding in my rooms have separted away from the floors. How can I begin to fix this?
But WHY has your baseboard molding separated from the floor? How old is your house? And what floor has this problem occurred on?
If you wish to eliminate the gap, first you should find out why it is there. If the floor has settled, it may be wiser to have the floor jacked back up, and the floor support below checked out and firmed up. This separation should probably only occur on a interior wall and as the floor sags, the wall remained in place.
If the floor is supported ok, and you will leave it that way, then the molding can be removed (carefully pulling it away from the wall) and moved down and renailed. Nails should be pulled out of the wood from the back to keep the front of the board from splintering, and new nails used in new holes.
But check on that floor first.
Chair RailsChair Rail
What is the standard height for a chair rail? Is that measure from the bottom or top of chair rail?
Do you have any advice for a first timer?
Between 30 -36 inches, from the top of the chair rail.
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