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My baseboards have separated from the floor at about 1/2 inch. What can I use to seal the gap?
A bead of paintable caulking or a 1/4 round to top off the baseboard also works to hide the gap.
Baseboards in bathroom
I've taken out the baseboards in my bathroom, as part of painting the bathroom. I'll replace
with new ones. I have no tools. I know I need to buy a miter box. What kind of saw do I need? My toilet's water
pipe goes right through the baseboard, so how do I cut out a small circle? What kind of nails do I use and how
close together do I nail them?
Any special techniques I should know for measuring and cutting? One of the boards
will have to be stained to match the cabinet. How do I do that?
Can you tell I'm a rank beginner? But I'm willing to learn and willing to try.
Miter boxes often come with a saw. If the one you are buying does not, buy a back saw. (It is a rectangular shaped
saw that is rigid because if a thick area along the top). You can drill a hole in the wood for you pipe, IF you
are disconnecting the pipe and can put the board over the pipe.. but check this out. You may want to just make
a joint in the wood here, cut a half circle on each to make the hole for the pipe. If you want to drill the circle,
buy a drill bit the size of the pipe PLUS a bit. The pipe can have a chrome plate to cover the hole. You don't
want to try and make the hole.. JUST the size of the pipe..and then hopefully you put it in the exact spot you
need it. A forstner bit.. or a hole saw.. will cut a nice smooth hole.Or you can buy a less expensive spade bit.
ONE thing to be sure.. drill into the good side.. because invariably the wood will splinter on the way out the
back. Speaking of joints, the best way to join to straight sections together.. is to cut the ends with mating 45
degree angle cuts. This would be 45 along the straight face.. NOT a 45 that you can see.. the cut runs 90 degrees
up and down.. know what I mean? I will add a picture here if I am not saying this clear enough. To nail the wood
in, use finish nails. 10 penny should be good for most parts.. pick up some smaller 4 penny
nails to use if you need to nail near the ends of the board into another end. Nail into the wood at the base of
the wall... or into studs.. don't nail where there is no wood behind the drywall.. the nail won't hold.. There
should always be wood along the base of the wall up about 1 inch. A pair of nails one at the base.. and into the
stud (they are every 16 inches..) every 32 inches to every 16 inches on long boards.. and just 2 or 4 on small
Measure twice and cut once.. !
Make a few practice cuts on some scrap.. to get the feel.. and to understand how the angles go together..remember
to pay attention to which direction your 45 is going in. (When you cut one wrong you will know EXACTLY what I mean)Bring
those color charts home to pick out the closest color stain... Did I hit everything???
Trimming & Siding
I want to replace all the wood fascia trimming on my house with fresh wood and wrap it siding. My question is: should I use treated wood since I'm wrapping the wood in vinyl sidings.
No, I don't believe it is necessary to use treated wood. The wood will be protected from the rain and the sun.. the two things that will damage the wood, so it should last under the vinyl or aluminum that will cover it.
How high off floor is the baseboard?
If you mean the bottom of the baseboard?
It should not be off the floor at all as baseboards
are meant as a barrier between wall and flooring.
They are put there to stop dust and dirt as well as
air gaps as well as a finishing edge from floor to wall
THEREFORE the answer to your questions is NO GAP.
My wife and I recently put in laminate flooring in our dining area. The problem is, the new molding will not line up with the existing molding in the living room, and the new molding will be about 1/4 inch higher than the old. What is the best way to match the corners where they meet?
Try soldier blocks or you could rip a quarter inch off the bottom of the new molding so that it matches the height of the old.