I remember reading in some sales literature from Sylvania saying that some of their electronic ballasts are GFCI compatible. The issue is the filters that remove some of the electric "noise" generated by the electronic ballast directs some of this to ground, causing GFCI's to trip. I had magnetic ballasts on a GFCI that never tripped, but I had one that sometimes tripped, usually when the light was turned off ironically.
It technically will be a code violation to but the cord off of a fixture listed as cord and plug connected only. If it is listed for direct wiring then it would be ok, maybe contact the manufacturer to see if it is approved for direct wiring. Obviously it will work if direct wired regardless of if listed for it or not, as long as there are regular knock-outs for the cable clamp and you use wire rated of the appropriate temperature, but it will be technically a violation to install a fixture contrary to its listing. I recommend getting a fixture that has no cord, and just direct wire it. The plug-in fixtures are probably of lower quality.
A single receptacle for a perminately located load used to be allowed, but not any more, under the current NEC all receptacles in unfinished basements and garages must be GFCI protected.
On a (very technical) side note...there are fixtures with residential ballasts and commercial ballasts. Residential ballasts draw more amps (due to lower power factor) and cause harmonics on the neutrals, making them unsuitable for 3 phase systems. But residential ballast have better noise filtering, making them less likely to cause interferance with household electronics such as radios.
Look at the amp draw for circuit loading. A residential ballast for two 32 watt tubes draws around 0.90 amps (more than the wattage sum/120) and a commercial ballast for two 32 watt tubes draws around 0.45 amps.