My house has T1-11 style siding that is painted. It is in very good condition but this summer I am planning on re-painting it. As a looked we have 1x2 trim that is nailed on at 16"oc. It gives the board and bat look.

These trim pieces are the main problem. The paint is peel off very bad after 6yrs. They used the pre-primed trim that I see from HD. What I find is that when I peel the paint off, it goes down to bare wood which say to me that the factory applied primer is what is peeling off.

My plan is to pull these 1x2's off, sand/scrap them down to bare wood and them paint them.

My question: I think priming them is important, but with the new "prime and paint in one" (of which I am NOT using) is this an important step? To be honest, I don't see how they can add primer and paint in one step, if the purpose of primer is to seal the wood and give the top coat something to adhere to. I don’t understand how you can accomplish this in one step.

Anyway, do I prime??? And if so, what is the best primer? I have used Glidden's "Gripper" primer on bare wood (then top coat) at my garage and after 3yrs, it seems to be holding up. The top coat is Sherwin-William ext. acrylic latex.

Any suggestions would be great. Like I side, the top coat looks good, but these trim pieces are why I am doing this and would like to have the paint on these pieces last for more then 6yrs...

As a side note, my house does get hit with some pretty harsh weather in the winter. We have much rain, and during the winter storms, I routinely get 40-60 mph winds with driving rain.

Use an exterior oil primer. Exterior primers have more oil in them, and provide a more flexible coating. Since they're coming down, it sure won't hurt to prime all four sides.

PeeEss... Factory applied primers are typically latex.

I agree with what Bozodog says and wish to add that 6 years is not too bad for an exterior paint job. In SoCA we considered 8 years good. But, again, factory applied primer is usually latex and that is suspect IMHO.

Our front porch railings here were either not primed or were primed with latex by the builder, and they had to be redone after 4 years.

Ok, so oil primer it is...

And yes, I plan on painting them on all sides, with the top coat also. Then install, caulk the nail holes and tough up the caulked nail holes to finish.

Question: I am doing a pretty good job with a table top sander and then scraping. But there is still some paint in the rough part of the wood...does this need to come out completely, or will the oil primer just bond to these parts. The parts that I refer to are not peeling and are bonded really well.

Any brand you suggest?? Or better yet, any brand you would stay away from. I have been going to Sherwin Williams for the most part, I can go talk with them.

Sherwin Williams. My choice.

If it's bonded well you don't really have a choice. If small areas, you should get a job that will last. But be aware those will be the areas that fail first.

Don't forget: EXTERIOR primer. If you can't find one labeled as such, add a dash of linseed oil to whatever primer you get. You'll get better penetration.

Forget painting and priming.

If your going to remove the trim replace with either cedar or pine rough cut and stain. I've had every house like this and used Maxum acrylic solid stain, also used on one house with T-111, and never primed or had any issues.

What he said. Plus, the time and effort spent stripping 1x2's hardly justifies the cost saving. Scrap em, and replace em. And as you said, do all sides, 'and' both ends

And yes, primer and paint in one is a fairy tale. Sounds good if you don't know any better.

I too would have recommended a solid stain (I prefer Cabot), until I thought about the proximity to his painted T1-11. He's pretty much forced into paint because future maintenance will be a nightmare with a paint/stain setup... Trying to cut those 1x's? NOT...