Anything's possible....

There might not have been a spark when it died
(before waiting 20 minnits)

Pump can overheat quickly...

Pressure regulator may be leaking...

Filter clogged....

Bad ignition module...
(remember 'up there' you said replaced with used one)


That's why they call it 'diagnosis'....


Based on your 'sputtering issue',
my money is on fuel delivery (or lack of)

If it only took 8-9 miles, that's what,..5 minnits?

Hook up pressure gauge, let it idle in driveway for 5-10-15 minnits and monitor.

.

Ok, thanks, will do. Unfortunately for whatever reason GM did not use an external fuel filter on these vehicles. If that is clogged then I will have to change the pump.

Is there any way to test the ignition module? Yeah, that nine miles was about 10 minutes. I was just thinking that 20 minutes wasn't enough time for anything electrical to cool down enough to make contact again or whatever it may be. The temp was in the high 80's, so wasn't real cool ar anything.

I will start with the pressure & see what happens from there.

Thanks.

Chris

UPDATE:

Hooked up fuel pressure gauge, 60 psi, no fluctuation. Ran an entire 3 minutes before dying. Wouldn't restart. Waited about 15 - 20 minutes, restarted & ran about 20 - 25 minutes before I decided to stop messing with it (previous engagement).

Any 'check engine light?

If there WAS spark, the next time it happens
try to restart holding the gas pedal TO THE FLOOR
to minimize flooding, and see what happens.

IF there was NO SPARK,
I'd be looking at the crank position sensor
or the ignition module, based on testing of same.

.

Pressure never fluctuated or dropped. Rose to 60 psi upon start & remained there, even after truck died. Did not check for spark, check coil with mulitmeter to ensure it was good, all checks ok (according to haynes manual). That was the last chance I had to work on truck. Next time it dies, I will immediately check for spark.

Should I check for spark at the plug first? Then if not there, check for spark from ignition coil?

"Should I check for spark at the plug first? Then if not there, check for spark from ignition coil?".....

Most times I would start at the plugs.
In your case, since you've swapped parts before the plugs, I'd check the coil first.

Been watching this thread. I've got an '07 GMC Sierra. I really like my truck too.

Good luck....notnew....

Yeah, I really like the truck, too bad it knew when it was paid off & starting acting up. haha.

Thanks, I'll update next time I have a chance to mess with it.

Been busy haven't had a chance to work on truck. Here is latest update.

Truck started & ran fine. Let it run for about 25 minutes & no problems. Extremely hot outside & having holiday festivities so I only let it run this long.

I did rev the engine, just to see if anything would happen, possibly it would die again. First time I revved it, the fasten seat belt warning came up. Truck was still in park. This warning doesn't come up unless truck running & in gear. Revved again & noticed at 2500 rpm, the speedo would fluctuate. 2500 on tach, 5 mph on speedo. Again truck was in park the entire time. Checked for loose or broken wires & could not find anything.

I just don't want to drive again & get stuck with another tow bill. Fortunately currently have a 2nd vehicle.

Thoughts? Other than maybe time to take to a shop.

Thanks,

Chris

.
.



That was your first indication of a problem....

After that, the distributor issue evolved, but as a result
of the "screw", not the ignition system.

At this point, per your last post, it's running,
but hasn't been on the road.

Going back to Day 1, I'm gonna say replace the
Crank Position sensor.....and give it a shot.

Yes, we're kinda replacing parts, but it's cheaper to do it
yourself, and see the results, whether more quitting after or not, ...just don't know, at this point.


If problem STILL remains after CPS change,time for full diagnostic at the shop.

.

I had to chime in after reading all of bigfxr's problems.
This may be off base in this instance, but I had an identical problem with a V8 (305) Camaro a number of years back.
It was the ignition module that failed when it got hot. I was able to get it home by putting ice on the outside of the distributor to cool it down.
Of course, it's easy to test for spark failure, if you do it quickly when it happens. Before it cools.
I would check the spark at a location (coil wire, spark plug end or cap end of one plug wire) where you can see the spark, but allow the engine to run. Just in case it creates spark when cranking, but not when in "run" mode. If you can pull a plug wire from the cap and hold it near there, you're less likely to get a shock, since the spark will run to the plug instead of your hand. Not foolproof though!
Really hope this helps.