220V is no more hazardous in a wet environ than 110 is. Neither hot wire is more than 110V from ground potential on 220V.

At 220V his pump will draw half the amperage, which could be of benefit if the wire run is long.

J

Hmmm, good point. Basically rewiring back like the other pump was wired. I replaced the pump about 6 months ago because the original was leaking, and it was wired to 220. I had a spare, identical pump in the shed that I swapped it out with, but that pump is wired as 110 (was used as a lawn irrigation pump). So that means the pump room is wired for 220, but that could be easily rectified by just switching to a 110 breaker in the breaker box. I was under the impression that it was more efficient to run the 220, but from what I've just read from a quick search on the internet, that is a flawed assumption. We do plan on getting a generator at some point (we have periodic power outages where I live), so if it's just as efficient to stay with 110, then I'll go that route. Thanks for asking the question! What size breaker would be required to run on 110? Thanks again!

The chart calls for a 15A fuse/breaker. I'll let the electric experts guide you on replacing a 220V with a 110V breaker. I think 220V is only necessary when you're far away from the service panel (like at the bottom of a 300' well).

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Presently, you're running a two pole breaker, and 110 will change that.... in addition to needing to know what type wire was run to the pump house...

A "decent" generator hookup will feed 220 to your panel,
So I don't see a reason to reinvent the wheel with the pumps,
I'd leave it as is.

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I figured I'd have to swap out the breaker and wire a bit differently if I do that. The wire going to the pump room is 10 guage, I believe.

Unless you really need to use your electric range and dryer during a power outage, I don't see the advantage of a 220V generator. I bought a 4000W/120V Champion generator from Cabela's for $300. It will power everything else in my house, but not at the same time. I suspect a 220V generator would cost more. I guess it depends on how much inconvenience you're willing to put up with, and for how long.

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The cable going to the pump house is 10/2 or 10/3 ??

If it's 10/2 you don't have an insulated neutral,
and hence no return path for the 110......


The generator situation, .... well, personal preference, I guess.

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bilvihur A little off topic........ I have two of those generators, did you buy or build a wheel kit for that model? Can't see paying 40 bucks for such a simple addition.

I bought one of those furniture dollies from a clearance center and used HD plastic tie-down straps to firmly attach the genny to it. I only have to pull/push it 25' to outside the garage. Works for me!

Thanks for the reply. Great minds think alike..... did the same for both of mine!