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#688610 - 10/15/11 07:06 PM How to correct bowed walls on completed garage?
KingRay Offline
fanatic

Registered: 12/09/04
Posts: 518
Loc: Wichita, KS
I have a 24 x 32 garage on the back of a property that really is in great shape on the inside but the moron that built it before I obtained it apparently didnt do things correctly

I will explain this the best I can. The long walls bow in 5" or so at the top in the front and Bow Back 5" in the back.

They didnt square it up before they installed the pre-made rafters. So when they measured the overhand on the front they are all the same. Well, yeah they are the same but the roof line, soffits, and wall all bow in a 1/2 a foot and the door wont even open correctly without wedging onto the slab inside the door.

It needs a roof anyway so My plan was to just tear the sheeting off, cut the rafters at the top plate and winch each rafter into its NEW Correct place after I square the walls up.

Its a simple stupid mistake that will cost me $600 in plywood and My own labor but really irritating. I really just needed to shingle it but now I dont want to put money into a crooked roof when I think I can fix it right.

I was hoping I could get either someone telling me a better way or to say "yeah that is the best way to do it" lol

That is what i feel is easiest. There is no way it would be better to start over at all. The foundation is fine, just workmanship problems.

Thanks guys.
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KingRay

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#688613 - 10/15/11 07:14 PM Re: How to correct bowed walls on completed garage? [Re: KingRay]
Punky Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/01/05
Posts: 3707
Loc: Springville, NY
it sounds like the entire building is sliding uniformly in one direction at the top? why not just pull it back upright and add bracing to keep it that way?

maybe i'm not picturing it correctly, too
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#688615 - 10/15/11 07:20 PM Re: How to correct bowed walls on completed garage? [Re: Punky]
KingRay Offline
fanatic

Registered: 12/09/04
Posts: 518
Loc: Wichita, KS
It would seem that would be the easiest way but its a 32 foot span and just by looking at it, it just seems they sheeted it when it was crooked. If that was the case all those nails are holding that stuff solid like a drywalled interior wall that was framed out of wack.

I guess I could try to winch it but man that just seems like a lot of pulling. BUT if it does the trick that is much easier than pulling all the plywood off. Surely that roof wouldnt be that sloppy and loose though to sagg after it was built. I really think he just didnt square it right before installing rafters.

The soffits all seem to be nice and tight and no signs of tweaking. They just follow that darn bowed wall. Maybe I will look harder and see. Cant hurt to try and pull it with a winch before trying to take sheating off.

Thanks for the reply.




Edited by KingRay (10/15/11 07:22 PM)
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#688640 - 10/16/11 07:24 AM Re: How to correct bowed walls on completed garage? [Re: KingRay]
CabinConnection Offline
Bigfoot
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 01/20/04
Posts: 38638
Loc: The Indianhead's Left Nostril....
Rafter or truss?

And if truss and pre-made, then they'd all be the same length...

So I assume BOTH long walls are twisting?

If that's the case, then the short (gable end) walls can't be square.

Something doesn't compute with what you're describing and what I'm trying to visualize...


And no way you're going to straighten things with sheathing on those walls...

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#688650 - 10/16/11 08:00 AM Re: How to correct bowed walls on completed garage? [Re: KingRay]
Able_Dog Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 12/07/03
Posts: 33517
Loc: N Georgia
Quote:
Cant hurt to try and pull it with a winch before trying to take sheating off.


Both walls were bowed when the trusses were installed, when the sheathing was applied a monolithic structure was created that will defy straightening.

It would be impossible to straighten it with the plywood nailed down.

I don't know what they thought when they put that first row of plywood on.

If the plywood wasn't there, one wall could be winched straight and automatically pull the other wall straight since the truss seats are where they are supposed to be (overhangs are uniform dimension).

I wouldn't try to winch it with the plywood nailed, it won't work.


Edited by Able_Dog (10/16/11 08:04 AM)

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#688657 - 10/16/11 08:16 AM Re: How to correct bowed walls on completed garage? [Re: Able_Dog]
Able_Dog Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 12/07/03
Posts: 33517
Loc: N Georgia
I'd like to see a picture taken from one corner and showing the wall (either front or back) and the underside of the soffit.

Geeze, how did they cut the tails and not see it? Couldn't have had a string on them (or anything).

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#688679 - 10/16/11 12:10 PM Re: How to correct bowed walls on completed garage? [Re: KingRay]
Clint_Robbins Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/19/01
Posts: 10438
Loc: Akron, OH
Quote:
My plan was to just tear the sheeting off, cut the rafters at the top plate and winch each rafter into its NEW Correct place after I square the walls up.

If I understand correctly and the overhang is uniform, the trusses are already correctly connected to the top plates. I would try squaring the structure with the sheathing in place. If it doesn't work, you haven't wasted any effort because the same method could be used with the required amount of sheathing removed.

I would tie cables with turnbuckles to the top plate at the center of the wall that is bowed out to both corners of the opposite wall. The cable connection points might need to be reinforced depending on the existing construction details. Tighten the turnbuckles slowly over a period of days or weeks as required. A bow of 5" in 32' isn't very much. If the structure doesn't straighten uniformly, additional cables might be required at other locations along the bowed wall. A wood framed structure can be very flexible in a plane that doesn't have diagonal or solid bracing.

When the structure is satisfactorily square, the cables could remain or some other type of bracing would need to be provided.

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#688680 - 10/16/11 12:37 PM Re: How to correct bowed walls on completed garage? [Re: Clint_Robbins]
Able_Dog Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 12/07/03
Posts: 33517
Loc: N Georgia
Quote:
If it doesn't work, you haven't wasted any effort because the same method could be used with the required amount of sheathing removed.


Forget "if it doesn't work", it won't work.
The same method with the sheathing removed is a whole different story because trusses can move independently of other trusses.

If he tries what you suggest it will rip the top plate from the connection to the truss seats while the roof stays right where it is.

All those sheets of plywood have to shift several inches upward. For example the first course of plywood (and all others) have a 5 inch dip from horizontal straight and they are all securely nailed.

Are you a gambling man?

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#688683 - 10/16/11 12:58 PM Re: How to correct bowed walls on completed garage? [Re: Able_Dog]
Clint_Robbins Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/19/01
Posts: 10438
Loc: Akron, OH
Quote:
All those sheets of plywood have to shift several inches upward. For example the first course of plywood (and all others) have a 5 inch dip from horizontal straight and they are all securely nailed.

If the HORIZONTAL bow is 5", the bow in the plane of the sheathing on a sloped roof is less, and the amount depends on the roof slope. It would be easier to straighten the structure if it has a steeply sloped roof than if it has a low sloped roof.

It's not a gamble if you fasten the cables to the structure correctly, tighten the cables slowly, and monitor how the structure is reacting.

The OP assumed that the structure was constructed with the bow, but it's possible that wind loads caused the bow (especially if it has a steep roof slope) because of the lack of horizontal bracing.

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#688684 - 10/16/11 01:02 PM Re: How to correct bowed walls on completed garage? [Re: Clint_Robbins]
CabinConnection Offline
Bigfoot
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 01/20/04
Posts: 38638
Loc: The Indianhead's Left Nostril....
I just don't get the OP's description... All four walls would be parrelelograms, and would thus require the sheathing to have been custom cut to fit.

No way that thing's going to straighten out without removing the sheathing as I understand the present description.

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