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#689566 - 10/21/11 07:14 PM Re: How to correct bowed walls on completed garage? [Re: Able_Dog]
KingRay Offline
fanatic

Registered: 12/09/04
Posts: 517
Loc: Wichita, KS
Originally Posted By: Able_Dog
Quote:
I thinks is strange that all the experience on these forums and as much as each aspect of this whole roof has been discussed to death, a photo of the obvious is still needed.


No, what's strange is that you have not shown ANY photos that show the extent of the problem. It would seem to me that would be part of your first post.

Quote:
Are you guys assuming that since its 4-5" bow that each(4) sheets will have a 1.3" gap between them? if you are calculating it like that then its the wrong way.


Of course not. Once the correction is made on the first course which it probably was from looking at the underside photos the gaps are fine.

Your comment that you explained it all very clearly is certainly not true. For example right from the start you describe it as a 24X32 ft garage. Which if you are describing it right means it's 24' wide and 32' deep. Then you go on to say the bow is in both LONG walls which means the bow is in the gable end walls. Then you speak of the overhangs as also being bowed so it's obviously not the gable end walls since there's no OH there.

Later you mention a 32' span when the span is 24'. So a lot of the confusion is on you.

I could have put this same thread on with something like this.

"Hey guys, this is front wall of garage
[PICTURE OF FRONT WALL]

and this is the rear wall
{PICTURE OF REAR WALL]

What do you think?"

We (and you) would have been light years ahead from the the get go.

Quote:
I will try to climb my big [censored] up there when my wife gets home.


You don't have to climb up anywhere, just a picture from one end which shows the curve of fascia and wall, very simple.

People are really trying to help.

Can you honestly say that any of your pictures remotely show the problem? I sure don't see it.


Able, I do think of you as a very well respected person on these forums and know you know what you are talking about.

In this case saying I flip flopped is completely wrong. just because you have it to where you use the dimensions as you do does not mean anyone or everyone else does. that was assumptions on your part that made it more difficult.

The comments on how you would hav eposted this thread would have lead to double the questions. I listed all details from the beginning.

Simple photos would mean nothing. If I did that you or someone would ask, "what direction are we looking at"(not sure why). which way does the wind blow?(again ?).
You would have asked all the same questions as well as "we want to see the inside plywood". I dont know how to explain what you are doing but it to me is just asking questions over and over and dancing around how to fix it for who knows what reason. I have said, I know how to fix this. I was asking what or how you all would fix it. BUT All I am getting is a couple of you just going on and on about what caused it.

I already stated the options on what could have caused it and most are not reasonable. just slightly possible. I have ruled most of those out as you have read.

who cares if I show a photo of the string line or line of site you mention?? again........ what will it really show you???? still have got no answer to that. Give me a reason other than just you want to see it so you can picture it in your head. EVERY other aspect that you could possible want to know has been discussed. Look for it on these posts and its there. If you or anyone was confused at the beginning it was corrected for you later but some reason just that seems to be the topic.

I have give you so much description that its somewhat funny. You as well as I know that just about any situation on these forums can be figured out without a photo of each minor issue. I feel the problem is people just skimming trough "as they have said a couple times now" and not reading details.

Im not going to argue about it anymore. I honestly had no doubt this would be a 3 post or less topic. It floors me that its nearly 100 posts now. I can post these long posts that drag out trying to describe more and more or over and over again and yet the only question is "we need a photo" I really dont think the folks asking know what that will show. I imagine you think I know nothing and you will go "see, right there thats what the problem is" isnt going to happen. I am not new to this. To keep going on and on about the way I described it Even after I posted the sketch is odd as well. Just answer the question would be easier.

Anyway I am sure you will post another reply to all this explaining how I have made it all confusing but if you went back and read all the posts I made slowly and in detail you would in no way say a photo is all you need.

Thanks guys, again, My BS on here means nothing personal at all. I hope it doesnt make my replies to peoples posts irrelevant in the future as I do like to help out when I can.
_________________________
KingRay

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#689832 - 10/23/11 09:29 PM Re: How to correct bowed walls on completed garage? [Re: KingRay]
KingRay Offline
fanatic

Registered: 12/09/04
Posts: 517
Loc: Wichita, KS
Funny......
_________________________
KingRay

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#689834 - 10/23/11 10:46 PM Re: How to correct bowed walls on completed garage? [Re: KingRay]
BillJeffy Offline
Don't Know Squat
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 01/02/06
Posts: 7885
Loc: USA
.
.
If all is as I envision it,

I've got $20 that sez it can be pulled straight as is... smile

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_________________________
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Just Common Sense......
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err....I'm not a Doctor, but I'll take a LOOK ! !

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#689839 - 10/24/11 05:04 AM Re: How to correct bowed walls on completed garage? [Re: BillJeffy]
Clint_Robbins Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/19/01
Posts: 10014
Loc: Akron, OH
Quote:
If all is as I envision it, I've got $20 that sez it can be pulled straight as is..

I agree but, even if it can't straightened with cables, that would be the first step in any attempted solution.

P.S.: I also think that King Ray's original explanation and sketch was adequate to describe the problem.

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#689840 - 10/24/11 05:10 AM Re: How to correct bowed walls on completed garage? [Re: Clint_Robbins]
CabinConnection Offline
Bigfoot
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 01/20/04
Posts: 34394
Loc: The Indianhead's Left Nostril....
Yep. The sketch really helped.

As for pulling and keeping a 5" bow out... You'd still do it like this?

...tie cables with turnbuckles to the top plate at the center of the wall that is bowed out to both corners of the opposite wall. The cable connection points might need to be reinforced depending on the existing construction details. Tighten the turnbuckles slowly over a period of days or weeks as required. A bow of 5" in 32' isn't very much. If the structure doesn't straighten uniformly, additional cables might be required at other locations along the bowed wall. A wood framed structure can be very flexible in a plane that doesn't have diagonal or solid bracing.

When the structure is satisfactorily square, the cables could remain or some other type of bracing would need to be provided.


If it weren't for the present need for a new roof, I'd probably try this. As an exercise. Not much to lose.

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#689843 - 10/24/11 05:54 AM Re: How to correct bowed walls on completed garage? [Re: CabinConnection]
Clint_Robbins Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/19/01
Posts: 10014
Loc: Akron, OH
Quote:
As for pulling and keeping a 5" bow out... You'd still do it like this?
...tie cables with turnbuckles to the top plate at the center of the wall that is bowed out to both corners of the opposite wall. The cable connection points might need to be reinforced depending on the existing construction details. Tighten the turnbuckles slowly over a period of days or weeks as required. A bow of 5" in 32' isn't very much. If the structure doesn't straighten uniformly, additional cables might be required at other locations along the bowed wall. A wood framed structure can be very flexible in a plane that doesn't have diagonal or solid bracing.

When the structure is satisfactorily square, the cables could remain or some other type of bracing would need to be provided..

Yes

Quote:
If it weren't for the present need for a new roof, I'd probably try this. Not much to lose.

To install a new roof, you wouldn't have to remove the sheathing. I would try to straighten it before doing anything with the roof and do the roof work after I saw the result of the straightening attempt.

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#689868 - 10/24/11 08:40 AM Re: How to correct bowed walls on completed garage? [Re: Clint_Robbins]
BillJeffy Offline
Don't Know Squat
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 01/02/06
Posts: 7885
Loc: USA
.
.
Shingles offer little structural integrity in the 'twisting'
motion we would experience in this case.

Personally, I'd use rebar Vs, cables since it's a one time use,
and I'm gonna walk away and leave it there.....and never anticipate any future 'stretch'...

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_________________________
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.
Just Common Sense......
.
.
err....I'm not a Doctor, but I'll take a LOOK ! !

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#689887 - 10/24/11 11:02 AM Re: How to correct bowed walls on completed garage? [Re: BillJeffy]
CabinConnection Offline
Bigfoot
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 01/20/04
Posts: 34394
Loc: The Indianhead's Left Nostril....
REBAR???

Where???

(Rebar to you must be something different than rebar to me...)

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#689998 - 10/24/11 07:49 PM Re: How to correct bowed walls on completed garage? [Re: CabinConnection]
BillJeffy Offline
Don't Know Squat
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 01/02/06
Posts: 7885
Loc: USA
_________________________
.
.
Just Common Sense......
.
.
err....I'm not a Doctor, but I'll take a LOOK ! !

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#690015 - 10/24/11 10:20 PM Re: How to correct bowed walls on completed garage? [Re: BillJeffy]
CabinConnection Offline
Bigfoot
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 01/20/04
Posts: 34394
Loc: The Indianhead's Left Nostril....
I must have missed it in the previous 108 (!) posts, so I'll ask again, "WHERE would you use rebar?" crazy

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