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Disconnected and checked for 110v at igniter lead while running. Zero volts

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Across the leads you mean?

Wire diagram shows the power comming from the board to thermal fuse, high limit thermostat to flame sensor to ignitor....neutral from the ignitor through the motor heat switch, door switch. No power at the ignitor and we start tracing back to see where it is lost. Open coil on gas valve could also prevent the ignitor from comming on.

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All I did was use it to check for continuity, not specific resistance. Because of the poor access to the specific components, if the needle bounced, I figured the component was good.

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Continuity must be done with the part isoltaed ( wires off ).

jeff.

Quote:

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Disconnected and checked for 110v at igniter lead while running. Zero volts

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Across the leads you mean?
Yes. The feed wires had no volts.

Wire diagram shows the power comming from the board to thermal fuse, high limit thermostat to flame sensor to ignitor....neutral from the ignitor through the motor heat switch, door switch. No power at the ignitor and we start tracing back to see where it is lost. Open coil on gas valve could also prevent the ignitor from comming on.
I think I also checked for voltage at a main harness connector that was feeding the entire burner assembly. The wires came down from up above the drum somewhere. There was no voltage there either. Now that I have the schematic, I'll double check this... (Remember, I didn't have the wiring diagram until just before the diagnostic tests...)

Quote:

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All I did was use it to check for continuity, not specific resistance. Because of the poor access to the specific components, if the needle bounced, I figured the component was good.

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Continuity must be done with the part isoltaed ( wires off ).
Did it that way - part isolated.

jeff.

Do you guys have really skinny arms/hands? Or generally just remove the whole burner assembly from the dryer chassis to test this stuff?

Edited add - I may NOT have checked the thermal fuse. Having a hard time finding it.

I DO have 110v coming out of the heater relay.

What is the function of the little red (dime sized) discs that are wired into various harness plugs?

Stand by folks (Jeff). I've just found the thermal fuse is open...

Got 'er!

This statement ("No power at the ignitor and we start tracing back to see where it is lost.") tripped a switch in my noggin, and I just followed the juice. I had 120v coming in, but nothing down below.

Took me awhile to find the thermal fuse, but once found, tested, and replaced, all is up and running again.

In retrospect, recall this dryer replaced a similar, but older Kenmore. When I started having the no-heat complaint, all the self-help trees said check the vent for obstructions first.

In doing so, I found a bit of lint in there, but also some ivy had grown around the flapper on the outside bonnet. I didn't think it was holding it closed... Then.

Now, after finding the thermal fuse blown, and getting a pretty good understanding of how these things work, it seems pretty likely to me that the ivy was in fact holding the vent closed, which resulted in the overheat conditions I'd complained about from the start.

SIMPLE!

(Once ya know all the facts!)

Again Jeff... MANY MANY THANKS for all the great advice you offer here!



2:50pm - Two loads through... Seems to be working OK. Cool!

Thankx for the update!

jeff.