Aaron:

If the capacitor is shot, it'll be the MOTOR that hums.

You probably have a split phase motor. therefore no capacitor.

Don't try to take the timer apart. I'm no expert on this, but if you don't see any numbers on the timer itself indicating which contact on the timer corresponds with those indicated on the wiring diagram, then I expect you can assume they're numbered sequentially from front to back.

I think multiple speed motors will have more than one run winding in them. If the "light bubl" you referred to look kinda like a coil of wire, those are supposed to be the start and run windings.

There will be a centrifugal switch in the motor that cuts out the start winding once the motor is approaching it's normal operating speed. There will also be a thermostat built into it that opens to break the circuit to the run winding if the motor overheats (which is what'll happen when you try to start it without the start winding working).

Don't take your timer apart. There are places that rebuild timers for a reasonable cost, but they have to be in one piece. You can find out who rebuilds timers in your area by phoning around to the appliance parts stores.

I did some more tinkering this morning and it would appear to me that the timer is indeed the problem. I ran the washer through it's cycles and when it got to the point where the motor started to hum, I rapped the timer box a few times with a screwdriver handle. After the 3 rd rap, the motor started. I guess I'll have to track down a new or rebuilt timer and try it. I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks again to everyone!

I may be late or late and wrong but how about the transmission hanging up and locking the motor?

Aaron:

Do the test to confirm that the timer isn't reversing the leads to the start winding. Whacking the timer seems to correct the problem seems to be strong circumstantial evidence that the timer is the problem, but testing the voltage at the start winding when the motor is buzzing is the legal proof you need to indict it.

Kevin:

The motor buzzes when it's supposed to be changing direction, and helping it out a bit by turning the motor manually with a stick seems to be all that's needed to get the motor running. Me thinks the start winding in the motor isn't getting power, and that's why the motor just sits there and buzzes until it cuts out on thermal protection.

Reading schematics isn't my strong suit, and I'm not too sure which wires are which to test. From what I've been told here and via email from a friend of mine, it seems like the timer is the culprit. Since the motor has been taken out of the equation and it doesn't have an external capacitor, it would have to be the timer, right?

Ya, do not take the timer apart, some of them allow you to remove a little panel to see the contacts, but if it is a sealed plastic unit, do not tear it apart. About the only way to rule out the motor is, with the motor humming, test for 120 volts (or close to it, within 15 volts.) at the motor. You would need a multimeter for this, if you don't have one, then don't buy one. If you do have one, test for voltage like it says above.

Aaron:

Take a photocopy of your wiring diagram and timer chart to any shop that repairs used appliances or any appliance parts shop. They'll help you figure it out.

Having your timer rebuilt won't bankrupt you, but you're looking at about $60 or so.

Since you can buy a cheap multimeter for $10, and you'll use that multimeter for many years, now is the time to invest in a multimeter and confirm that there's no voltage to that motor's start windings when it's buzzing. The $10 you spend on that will help you establish WITH CONFIDENCE whether or not you need to spend $60 having your timer rebuilt.

After all, there is always possibility of a broken wire between the timer and the motor which would explain why voltage at the timer contact isn't getting to the motor.

Buy the multimeter. You're at the stage where you're taking on projects where you definitely need one.

10 bucks? I thought they were 50+! For 10 bucks i'll buy 5 lol

Hi,

$15.00 is a good price Kurt....



Multi-meter at a good price.

jeff.

I have a multi-meter and use it all the time for diagnosing car problems, but I'm not all that confident on house electricity. A new timer will cost me $65.00 locally. I did make a few calls about getting my old one rebuilt and no one locally does that but one guy offered to send it out to be rebuilt. He didn't know what it would cost, but he said with the holidays, I probably wouldn't get it back until January.
The wires and all the connections look almost new, so unless the wire is broken inside the insulation, I don't think that's suspect.
My wife ran a couple loads of laundry this evening and everytime the motor stalled and hummed, a few whacks ion the timer housing started it right up. It's a pain, but I can live with doing that until Saturday, when I get the new times.
Thanks again.