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#535792 - 03/28/09 05:50 PM Maytag Clothes Dryer - heat problems
bubbadersh Offline
Super Handyman

Registered: 08/15/02
Posts: 2278
Loc: Southern California
Maytag electric clothes dryer
model DE710, series 01, (120/240V 3wire 60Hz 5600W)
Purchased around 1980

This is the almost 30 year year old electric clothes dryer from this previous post:
http://www.handymanwire.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB5&Number=757111

Some time ago noticed an intermittent problem where the dryer heater elements sometimes stayed on after a load of clothes finished drying. I would discover it was hot many many hours after the load ended and pull the plug to disconnect it from the power. If I later plugged it back in (after it cooled down) it would seem to work OK again. I'm pretty sure it also took longer to dry a load than it used to.

Any ideas what caused this?

Now it has finally changed to where the heater elements NEVER get hot. Except for not getting hot the dryer seems to run as it normally should.

I can follow electrical schematics and wiring diagrams (conveniently glued to to the inside of the dryer) and am pretty good at figuring things out but I have no experience with dryers beyond my previous post.

Hopefully it won't be too difficult to find where it loses power. According to the schematic there are a bunch of thermostats and switches in the path from L1 through the heater coil to L2 (The power cord is the old three wire style with L1, L2, and N).

Electrical Schematic DE710


Electrical Wiring Diagram DE710

_________________________
--- bub

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#535793 - 03/28/09 06:55 PM Re: Maytag Clothes Dryer - heat problems [Re: bubbadersh]
jeff1 Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/03
Posts: 11755
Loc: Ont Canada
Hi,

Quote:

dryer heater elements sometimes stayed on after a load of clothes finished drying. I would discover it was hot many many hours after the load ended and pull the plug to disconnect it from the power




Make sure the heating element is not grounding out...
http://www.applianceaid.com/grounded.html

Quote:

Now it has finally changed to where the heater elements NEVER get hot




Check for 220-240 volts AC across the heating element terminals when the dryer is running and calling for heat...black and white/brown according to your diagram.

jeff.

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#535794 - 03/28/09 10:30 PM Re: Maytag Clothes Dryer - heat problems [Re: jeff1]
bubbadersh Offline
Super Handyman

Registered: 08/15/02
Posts: 2278
Loc: Southern California
Grounded heating coil? OK. I'll check explicitly and let you know in later post.

Let me tell you what I found out so far. According to the diagrams, the power path from L1 (on the power cord) through the heater element and back to L2 (on the power cord) is as follows:
from L1
to Start Control Switch
to Cycle Selector (Regular, PermanentPress, etc.)
to Low Temp Cycle thermostat and Temp Selector Switch (Regular, Delicate)
to Reg Temp cycle thermostat
to Hi-Limit Thermostat
to Heater element
to Centrifugal Switch (on the drive motor)
to L2

I disconnected the wire (PU57) from the reg temp cycle thermostat at the Hi-Limit thermostat and measured voltage between there and Neutral (regular cycle while the drum was going). There was 120VAC at the reg temp cyc thermostat which shows the path from L1 is OK. The Hi-Limit thermostat had 0VAC which shows the path from L2 has a problem. This is consistent with a broken heater element.

I would think the Centrifugal Switch, if it works the way I assume it does, would break the voltage path from L2 when the drum stops rotating at the end of a cycle. Is that true?

Can you tell me a little bit about how the Solenoid and the Start Control Switch are working together? At the end of a dryer cycle should the Start Control Switch break the voltage path from L1?

Jeff, I see the article you referenced about grounded elements says "grounded element can also stay on even when the dryer is not in use."

If the heater element stays on after the dryer cycle ends does that mean something else besides a grounded element might be broken?

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#535795 - 03/29/09 06:28 AM Re: Maytag Clothes Dryer - heat problems [Re: bubbadersh]
jeff1 Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/03
Posts: 11755
Loc: Ont Canada
Quote:

I would think the Centrifugal Switch, if it works the way I assume it does, would break the voltage path from L2 when the drum stops rotating at the end of a cycle. Is that true?




Sort of, when the motor stops rotating the switch opens.

Quote:

Can you tell me a little bit about how the Solenoid and the Start Control Switch are working together? At the end of a dryer cycle should the Start Control Switch break the voltage path from L1?




Soleoid shouldn't have anything to do with heating, it pulls the switch to open up to shut off the dryer.

Quote:

If the heater element stays on after the dryer cycle ends does that mean something else besides a grounded element might be broken?




Means a possible grounded element, may have sagged from use.....means both the timer and motor heat switch would have to remain closed at shut down to complete the path for the element.

jeff.

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#535796 - 03/29/09 07:40 PM Re: Maytag Clothes Dryer - heat problems [Re: jeff1]
bubbadersh Offline
Super Handyman

Registered: 08/15/02
Posts: 2278
Loc: Southern California
Jeff, Turns out you were right (of course). The heater element was broken. The heater element had broken and in middle along with an insulator holding it up at that place.

The leads to the heater element properly showed 240VAC when the dryer was running.
The L2 side showed 0VAC to Neutral while off.
The L1 side showed 120VAC to Neutral while off.

Can I repair the heater element? Is it even worth it?

Does the L1 side of the element having voltage mean the starter switch is not right? If so is that something important to fix?
_________________________
--- bub

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#535797 - 03/29/09 10:44 PM Re: Maytag Clothes Dryer - heat problems [Re: bubbadersh]
jeff1 Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/03
Posts: 11755
Loc: Ont Canada
Quote:

Can I repair the heater element? Is it even worth it?




If the rest of the dryer is in good shape, I'd fix it! Can't fix the old element but can replace with a new one.

The whole housing:


Heater assembly complete

Element only:


Heater element, 240 Volt

Quote:

Does the L1 side of the element having voltage mean the starter switch is not right?




Starter switch? L1 comes from cycle switch and through the thermostats to one side of the element. L2 through the motor heat switch to the other side of the element.

jeff.

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#535798 - 03/30/09 10:44 PM Re: Maytag Clothes Dryer - heat problems [Re: jeff1]
bubbadersh Offline
Super Handyman

Registered: 08/15/02
Posts: 2278
Loc: Southern California
By starter switch I meant the 'start control switch' referenced in the schematic and wiring diagram.

I'd rather replace and restring just the heater element coil instead of replacing the complete heater assembly. Are there generic heater element coils I can get or does it really need to be Whirlpool Element Wire Kit P/N Y313538?
_________________________
--- bub

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#535799 - 03/31/09 06:25 AM Re: Maytag Clothes Dryer - heat problems [Re: bubbadersh]
jeff1 Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/03
Posts: 11755
Loc: Ont Canada
Quote:

Does the L1 side of the element having voltage mean the starter switch is not right?




Quote:

By starter switch I meant the 'start control switch' referenced in the schematic and wiring diagram




Why is it considered to be possibly bad? Should have power comming through the conrtol and thermostats to one side of the element and other side comes from the motor heat switch which will only close to complete the circuit if the motor is up and running.

Quote:

I'd rather replace and restring just the heater element coil instead of replacing the complete heater assembly




As long as all the insulators are ok and termianl ends ( with the nuts ) are ok the element only can be used.

Quote:

Are there generic heater element coils I can get or does it really need to be Whirlpool Element Wire Kit P/N Y313538?




I have seen some "no name" replacements but none had the thickness and quality of the acual Maytag element...JMO!

This link here is a no name style replacement.

jeff.

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#535800 - 03/31/09 11:24 AM Re: Maytag Clothes Dryer - heat problems [Re: jeff1]
bubbadersh Offline
Super Handyman

Registered: 08/15/02
Posts: 2278
Loc: Southern California
Quote:

Quote:

Does the L1 side of the element having voltage mean the starter switch is not right?


Quote:

By starter switch I meant the 'start control switch' referenced in the schematic and wiring diagram




Why is it considered to be possibly bad? Should have power comming through the conrtol and thermostats to one side of the element and other side comes from the motor heat switch which will only close to complete the circuit if the motor is up and running.


With the heater assembly disconnected, the wire that connects to the L1 side of the heater element measured 120VAC to Neutral while the dryer was not running. It looks to me, according to the schematic, that because L1 power comes through the Start Control Switch and the switch should have been open that I should have measured 0VAC.


Quote:

Quote:

I'd rather replace and restring just the heater element coil instead of replacing the complete heater assembly




As long as all the insulators are ok and termianl ends ( with the nuts ) are ok the element only can be used.



The complete heater assembly is in very good condition except for the heater element coil itself and one of the insulators.
_________________________
--- bub

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#535801 - 03/31/09 11:35 AM Re: Maytag Clothes Dryer - heat problems [Re: bubbadersh]
jeff1 Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 09/24/03
Posts: 11755
Loc: Ont Canada
Quote:

With the heater assembly disconnected, the wire that connects to the L1 side of the heater element measured 120VAC to Neutral while the dryer was not running. It looks to me, according to the schematic, that because L1 power comes through the Start Control Switch and the switch should have been open that I should have measured 0VAC.





The solenoid must pull the switch to open the contacts....if the solenoid never fired off yet the switchs will remain closed. Can manually try by hand to similate the solenoid action or allow it to run out and shut off on it's own and then retest.

Quote:

The complete heater assembly is in very good condition except for the heater element coil itself and one of the insulators.




Insulator...


Clip and insulator assy

jeff.

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