I have a SE1100 combo washer/dryer that spins the elctrical meter like mad. 2 hours to dry a load of clothes. Opened up the front and watched the element cycle. on for 15 secs and off for 1 min with no clothes in the dryer. The element is bright red in the center 2/3rd's but dark on the ends where connected. I checked the vent and it seemed clear. I suspect either the Thermister temp control or the cycling thermostat. Any thoughts......... my dollars are floating awayyyyy $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

Thanks, Brian

First make sure vent is "Completely" clear,from blower to outside. If ya have to stand outside and feel for air flow.
Next,check your temp select switch. It could be stuck in the low setting. Switch gone bad. I ran across this problem twice on GE dryers. After all the cleaning and thermo testing, it turned out to be the switch. Chech with an OHM meter.

I am having the same problem with a Whirlpool dryer. Vent is clean (it's only 1 ft long). Takes many, many cycles to dry clothes. I'm pretty handy and have a DMM, so what should I see testing the switch? My temp control is an "infinite" switch, without any discrete settings.

When checking one cycle setting, Ohms, POWER OFF all wires disconnected to switch, meter lead on one spade "power coming in", other lead on "selected heat cycle". example "LO" should show continuity only thru that circuit. If you take lead off "LO" and put on "MED/HI" but selector switch is still on "LO" switch broken,cuz your only calling for "LO"setting/circuit. One more thing,if you have an "Automatic sensor" timer can be bad in "auto mode" but function normal in "timed" mode. Auto sensors also have those goofy Circuit boards they crap out too!

Vent was verified to be totally clear. This particular washer/dryer utilizes that $280.00 microprocessor board so not sure where to start to verify the switch. I'll look at the schematic and see what I can. So no one feels that it is the thermostat? I do have one of those "goofy" auto-dry sensors in this machine..I believe Maytag is famous for having them.

and another thing... ha!

Tried timed dry vs auto, no change. Timed the heater coil cycle and it cam out to 45 secs on and 1 min 15 secs off for both auto and timed. I bypassed one of the thermostats with no change. Measured the resistance of the thermistor temp controler and it measured open. Wondered if this was normal. I tried to bypass the thermistor but received an error from my microprocessor board. Next I'll try bypassing everything and hook the 220 directly to the heater element...that'll get things smokin... just kiddin... thanks in advance for the inputs.

Mr Maytag,Mr Kenmore, have you people been following the Kenmore dryer thread from 1-23-03. All three of you seem to be having almost the same problem. Dryer runs to long for cycle or clothes are not dry.
The auto-sensor can be checked for continuity,Yes and the timer motor can be checked for continuity,Yes,along with all the thermostats. Let's go back to the begining.
Check all the following before moving the dryer and or taking it all apart.
Vent clear,yes or no?
Is a flame present on gas dryers? Yes/no?
Does the flame cycle "Normally" or on and off quickly? Yes/no
On electric dryers are you getting any heat? Yes/no?
Is this 'lectric heat "Hot (HI) or Warm (LO)"
With the "Timer" set in a "Timed Cycle" does it advance? Yes/no?
(If you "Donot" have a "Timed Cycle" then check for timer motor continuity.)Continuity on "Motor"unhook both wires not "Timer" it self. Good/bad?
Test "Temp Select Switch" for continuity. Is it stuck in "HI or LO" setting. Again resistence checks will verify. Yes/no?
On a Kenmore and possibly a Maytag there is a resistor (white porcelin)behind dash by timer.)Do a resistence check. Should show between 4000-5000 ohms.This lowers voltage to the timer. Yes/no.
Now its time to move away from wall and start testing the thermostats and sensors all resistence checks.
Visually check for any wires broken/unhooked. Yes/no?
Report back and we'll go from there.

Huh....? Did you read my post above?

Vent clear,yes or no? (yes)
On electric dryers are you getting any heat? Yes/no? (yes described the heating cycle)
Is this 'lectric heat "Hot (HI) or Warm (LO)" Only setting is regular or permanent press., both react the same)
With the "Timer" set in a "Timed Cycle" does it advance? Yes/no? (yes, electric microprosessor board)
(If you "Donot" have a "Timed Cycle" then check for timer motor continuity.)Continuity on "Motor"unhook both wires not "Timer" it self. Good/bad? (doesn't matter if it is in auto dry mode or timed mode)
Test "Temp Select Switch" for continuity. Is it stuck in "HI or LO" setting. Again resistence checks will verify. Yes/no? (part of main microprocessor board, unable to verify)
On a Kenmore and possibly a Maytag there is a resistor (white porcelin)behind dash by timer.)Do a resistence check. Should show between 4000-5000 ohms.This lowers voltage to the timer. Yes/no. ( integrated into microprocessor board)
Now its time to move away from wall and start testing the thermostats and sensors all resistence checks.
high and over temperature thermostat tests ok. Thermistor tests open but not sure that is supposed to test with a resistence)


Visually check for any wires broken/unhooked. Yes/no? (NO)
Report back and we'll go from there.

I can see why $280.00 for the "Circuit Board", it's the Damn Brain !!!!!!!!!!
I'll call tomorrow to a friend and see what his "Sears Repair Co-employees" have to say Until tomorrow,
C-YA Rich
Just a thought tho. A "High Limit Thermostat" mounted on the "Burner Housing" that is "Defective"by which it opens to quickly,or is locked closed or even locked open, "can and will" effect the " Auto Dry Cycle.

Maytag-Thermister is open as of "infinite"??? This should show continuity "000000" across. I believe that is your problem. Throw a jumper wire in place of the thermister. I believe it can't be reset. Try the jumper for a minute and see if the heat stays on longer than 15 seconds as reported earlier. What happened to Mr Kenmore?