Ignites; Won't Stay On
My GE gas dryer ignites but will not stay on. It seems like it is running in the fluff or low heat mode all the time. How are the temp sensors tested and which sensor is for which range?
First check the exhaust vent to the outside do you have a strong flow of air?
Is the lint passage free of lint? Are the blower vanes clear of lint?
A simple test for the sensors, I would bypass the wires to the thermosensor and operate the dryer. If the heat now stays on the sensor is usually bad. Also if the flame backs up the safety thermo can kick out to protect against fires. Usually due to plugged lint somewhere.
Contact me to place your ad here
Dryer Heats for 30 Secs; Coil Dies Out
My Montg Wards dryer heats for 30 secs then heating coil dies out. Dryer keeps turning but not heating so takes more than 2 hrs. to dry a load. To complicate matters, I removed some screws from back of machine and when I tried to return them to original condition, found no receptacle for them to go into. Now drum makes noise like its loose. I will take the whole thing apart if there is an adjustment that will make it better. But if the heating coil problem needs a serviceman or woman then I need advice to repair or replace.
This dryer was here when we moved in 8 years ago. Do you know how long a dryer should last? If your advice is to replace, what is a good brand or what ?s should I ask?
The reason you can't replace the screws is that the section that holds the drum support is out of alignment and no longer held in place by the screws you removed. I would have to dismantle the dryer, and remove the drum to line up and replace the screws- I would check and lubricate or replace the rollers at the same time.
The Heat problem Probably the split coils sitting on top on the gas valve are weak or the flame sensor is irratic. You seem to have a serious job already and some serious bucks to spend. Let a used dryer run at least 30 minutes with a load before you buy, it should be quiet and blow out consistent hot air. The Burner should stay on at least for 5 minutes.
If you get a generic repair person to tell you, they won't be biased, and will certainly know which ones last best.
Dryer Not Heating Up
I have a Kenmore dryer that blew a breaker and is not not heating up. Is this a heating element or something else. How hard is it to change an element?
The element is easy to change, but may not be the problem. It could be a bad thermostat. You must have a meter and some electrical experience. If you can determine that the element is getting power, and not getting hot, then you know its a bad element. If power is not getting to element, then a thermostat is not closing.
I have a Kenmore dryer and have replaced both thermostat and element at two different times. In my case, the thermostat stuck in the closed position, burning the clothes inside.
Dryer Not Heating nor Rotating
I have a Kenmore dryer that is not heating or rotating. Is there any way I can save this dryer?
If it doesn't tumble, it can't heat!
Could be anything from tripped circuit breaker, bad door switch, timer, power cord. One thing is to know which parts could be bad another thing is to know how to trouble shoot each part! Are you electromechanicaly able?
First try the first thing I mentioned
My Whirlpool Dryer Won't Dry Anymore
I just had my Whirlpool dryer fixed because it would not heat up when drying the clothes. This was about 7 months ago. Now I'm having the same problem. My husband tried cleaning the area at the bottom of the dryer where there was a great deal of lint collection. This however, did not help. What else can we do?
Do you recall what was "fixed" last time? There are a few things to check out.
1. This may seem obvious, but make sure your temperature switch is not pointed to "fluff/air dry".
2.Is the motor running? It has to, to dry three. Make sure your door switch is engaging properly.
3. If you are so inclined, unplug the power cord and remove the back lower panel of the dryer. Check all wire connections to make sure they are attached properly. If they are burned or worn, they need to be repaired or replaced. Any disruption of the circuit to the dryer element will stop its functioning.
4. Next, look for the thermostat.. which is usually a small circular metal device attached to the dryer element canister. Unscrew it and shake it slightly. You should hear a clicking noise. This should indicate that your thermostat is working (but not always!).
5. Remove the heater element canister cover and check to see that there is continuity of the element wires (no breaks). If there is a break, it needs to be repaired of replaced. You can take the heater element to a repair shop and be tested for current. If you think that you can repair any of this on your own, then go for it. Always think safety first before proceeding. My suspicion is the heater element.
I know from hearing of other peoples experiences, if you don't keep that "great deal" of lint cleaned from the lint traps, it's usually the elements that suffer, because of overheating. That should almost be an "after every use" ritual.
Maytag Electric Dryer Does Everything But Dry!
My Maytag model DE702 dryer, suddenly stopped heating. The drum spins, and the timer chimes at the end of cycle. The clothes remain dripping wet. I cannot afford the service charges,(unemployed presently). Desperate for help!
Electric, right? Check that both circuit breakers are closed. And if so, check the heating element. It is something you can replace....
Dryer Won't Heat
My dryer runs but won't get hot. How do I replace the heating element?
Actually, replacing the heating element is simple. First, make sure you can get the right part. With your model number etc, that shouldn't be too difficult... there are appliance parts places that sell these ,(I recently replaced one on a dryer made in 1961).
From there... you will need to open the back to get to the element.. the electric wires probably just plug right in to wire plugs, but worst you will have to do is use wire nuts...
Frigidaire Electric Dries Very Slowly
I just moved into an apartment with a washer/dryer and the dryer, although working, takes about 3 hours to dry one load of laundry. I know that the previous tenant had the same problem, but she said they came and fixed it. They have cleaned out the lint filter and the mounds of lint that had piled up in the space behind the washer/dryer, but now they say that this dryer will only dry about 6 lbs. of wet clothing (3 to 4 items of clothing, they say) at a time. This seems ridiculous -- wet clothes are heavy, and 6 lbs seems equivalent to about ONE towel. I have checked the manual and it says nothing about capacity being 6 lbs of clothing, although it does list many factors that might increase drying time, from the wrong voltage hookup to the number of 90 degree elbows in the exhaust pipe to the mere fact that apartment dryer arrangements, by nature, might require long drying times. I, for one, cannot afford to run an electric dryer for 3 hours per load, and I have a hunch that they are giving me this "6 lbs of wet clothing" line to keep from having to check the heating elements or really solve the problem. What do you think? Are they telling me the truth? I don't recall the model number, but the washer/dryer system says "Family Size Capacity" and I find it hard to believe that this translates into 3-4 items at a time. If it takes so long to dry and can dry so little at a time, then what's the point of even having a dryer? I'm so disappointed.
I have both, an electric dryer at my office. Its dries a FULL load a little slower than our gas dryer, by no means 3 hours.
Here is a simple self test.
(1)Check to make sure that the blower "fan" is operating. This can be done by feeling for a good volume of air exhausting at the vent.
(2)Make sure that the heating element is operating. Check at the vent for hot air.
(3)Cheat the exhaust for heat every 5 min though out the cycle. If not maybe it the timer.
If the dryer is a 110 apartment model, it will NEVER dry clothes like a 220 Volt model. It is a shame they even sell them.
Kenmore Dryer with Low Heat
My Kenmore dryer is taking forever to try clothes. The dryer is producing heat, but a low heat. The setting is on permanent press of high heat.
Since it is heating, is this a thermostat problem?
We keep the lint clean and it appears my lint duct is clear, but how can I make sure (interior wall to outside wall?)
There is a # of things to check
1)Taking your dryer is an electric 220 volt unit
First check to be sure both of your 30amp fuses are good.
2) If fuses are good depend on your model check at the element housing to be sure none of the wires are burnt off.
3)Wires ok Unplug your unit or remove the fuses if hard wired in, with an ohm meter check across the element terminals to be sure there is no breaks in the element. NOTE some models have 3 term. in which you will have to locate common term. holding 1 end of your meter on the common check for resistance across the other two terms.
4)If all checks are OK you should check to be sure your drum is turning, (Belt may be broken)
5) Remove the vent pipe & allow the unit to run, if you now have the proper heat this means the vent is block, check the outside vent hood, the sometimes have a screen just inside that will block up not allowing for air flow.
6) I hope one of these test will help you, if your unit still has the problem the problem could be in your thermo disc, either weak or open in which will require replacement.
Kenmore Gas Dryer Flame-Out
I have a Kenmore gas dryer Model 110.8668110. I'm trying to find the defective part causing the heating flame to only come on intermittently. Here's what happens. After you first start the dryer, the electric lighter glows and the flame starts just fine. Once reaching temperature, the flame goes out as it should.
The problem comes when the dryer asks for heat again -- the electric lighter glows but it appears the solenoids (to allow the gas to come), do not engage as I get no flame. The radiant sensor appears to be working fine.
What looks suspicious to me is one of the two-solenoid coils on the gas valve. The large coil (with three prongs in the connector) gets significantly hotter than the smaller coil and seems to have a hot spot. If you shut the dryer down and allow it to cool, it will repeat the same flame working once cycle. If you shut it down and immediately restart it, it will not get a flame.
At $20 a coil or $104 for the full gas valve assembly, I want to get this right before I buy too many parts. Anyone have prior experience with a situation like this? What was the fix?
This problem could be caused by a couple of things. First , if you have the original igniter which is round ,the connection to the igniter may be burned and pitted causing a high resistance that after a cycle will not allow the igniter to reach full temperature and allow the flame sensor to open. The igniters have been a problem. Also, gas valve coils have been known to fail to open the solenoid in the valve after they heat up, you should replace both coils. I wouldn't change the entire valve.
I had the same problem. It turned out to be the solenoid coil. I had the service guy come in and he told me what to look for. The coil fits on a metal post (in the center of the coil bobbin) which is the core of the solenoid. When the coil is activated, this core becomes magnetic. To be sure it is the coil, take a small flat head screwdriver and see if the core becomes magnetized. One of the coils switches the igniter ON and the other switches the gas valve. The service guy also said that if one goes out the other is ready, too. Therefore, we replaced both of them.
GE Dryer Will Not Heat Properly
I have a GE dryer that is only 13 months old. For about the last 2 weeks it will get hot. I cleaned the lint vent and the vent going outside. The dryer is out of warranty now. Do you think I have a bad timer or a bad heat element?
The dryer is fed from a double pole breaker, so make sure both are still not tripped. It sounds like a bad element to me, but they usually last a long time. I don't think it is the timer.. so I would check the element.
Dryer Keeps Getting Hotter
Our clothes dryer runs very hot no matter what setting we use. What should I do?
First check to be sure your vent isn't blocked, allow your dryer to run without the vent hook up to dryer. If this allows your dryer to run normally, then you will have to clean out your vent ( also the vent hood outside ) If dryer still overheats, your problem is more likely with the therostats or a short, call a rep. or repair service company in your area.
Smells & Noises | Wiring Questions | Belt Trouble | Vents | Won't Perform | Other Problems
I have a six year old dryer that is starting to stink. I have replaced the exhaust vent and hose. I have also removed the back of the dryer and cleaned out all the dust. The unit smells like burnt rubber or a dead animal. I know that it isn't a dead animal.
Replace the belt that turns the drum
Kenmore Dryer - Knocking Noise and Burning Rubber Odor
I have a Kenmore dryer. First problem I have is a knocking noise. I opened the top of the dryer and then the front. Everything appeared to be alright. The belt was not particularly loose, albeit old. Could an old belt cause this knocking? Do you have any other ideas?
Second problem, I believe that already I have this partially solved. Our dryer started smelling like burnt rubber. I took the heater out, and believe that this is the problem ... when I had it on Air dry there was not a smell. But ... this is the second heater that I have replaced on this machine in 6 years of service. Is this typical?
First problem: Probably one of the two drum rollers situated at the bottom of your dryer and supporting the spinning drum. Might need replacement or just lubrication. This noise is usually heard coming from the back of the dryer. A loose belt would probably not cause a knocking noise.
Second problem : Check all your wiring to the heater element that they are not cracked or burned. You shouldn't have to replace the heating element twice in six years...usually they last longer than that, but.... Make sure that your elements are properly installed and not touching any surfaces they are not to.
As an after thought...make sure that your lint trap and vent hose are patent in this process.
Dryer Making Grating Noise
When my dryer tumbles the clothing it makes a grating loud noise. The dryer is about 5 years old. Is there a place to lubricate the drum? Is this something that I can fix or must I call for service?
When you spin it by hand, can you locate the grating noise? Check around the front and the back seals of the drum for anything that might be caught and scraping. The drum rides on a couple of rollers. These are not supposed to wear out in five years, nor should they need service (till they die) If you eliminate the anything suck in the gaskets, and you feel ambitious and particularly handy, you could try taking a look inside, but there is nothing to lubricate .. You will be looking for something broken or those wheels on the bottom may be worn out. (be sure gas and/or electricity is off.
If this unit is manufactured by GE there are a couple of break down points in these units
1) There is a fibre bearing at the center back of the unit that may be worn causing the noise, the unit has to be taking apart to check as there is no access from the back of unit any longer.
2) If the scrapping is coming from the front of the unit, this usually means the front glides on which the drum is supported are worn. This is on all makes.
3) If you or husband are mechanically inclined both of these problems rather simple to repair. But if at any time you become unsure call a rep or repair centre.
Dryer Noise: Rubbing/Squeaking
I have a Hotpoint dryer that is 16 years old. It runs great except about three months ago it started making a rubbing/squeaking noise every time the drum spins. Any Suggestions?
It could be the wheels the drum rides on. These are relatively easy to replace (if you can get the drum out, then it is easy). The belt may also be the culprit, when was it replaced last?
Dryer Squeals When Rotating
No.1 My dryer has this awful squeal when it is running. Are the bearings going bad? Can they be replaced as a do it yourself project or is it better to call a repairman?
No. 2 My dryer is also making the same noise when it rotates and I was told that it was the 'drum slides'. However, I still need help trying to make sure that I have the exact problem and I also need to know how to repair the dryer after I have clearly identified my problem.
Both of your problem sounds like worn drum glides or rollers. Sometimes the rollers can be corrected simply by putting some WD40 or light oil on them. The glides or rollers have to be replaced if the bearing is wearing through.
In any event, it is not difficult to take a dyer apart for servicing and repair (I've kept a few from falling apart). Disconnect the power and remove the access panels in the back. If this is your first trip, make a diagram to remember where your screws go and sequence of replacement. Spin the drum by hand (watch your fingers!) and see if you can pinpoint the source of the squeal. Also, note the wear on the belt (it might need replacing). Try some lubricant on the rollers.
Also, check out the "Virtual Repairman" at www.geocities.com. This site has some diagrams that might help.
Maytag Dryer is Noisy Rotating or Spinning by Hand
Is this a worn pulley? Where can a replacement be purchased?
Yes, it could be your idler pulley and it may need adjusting and/or replacing. You can get a new one at any appliance parts store.
Dryer Hookup: 3-Prong Cord, 4-Prong Outlet
I moved into a double wide and my dryer cord is a 3 prong connection the outlet is 4 prong. I bought a 4 prong cord. Now my question is what next? The electrical schematic is wanting with my lack of knowledge. The diagram shows from right to left L2, Neutral & L1. L2 is connected to a black wire in the dryer, L1 is a red wire in the dryer and the neutral is a white wire in the dryer with what appears to be a ground jumper strap to the dryer housing itself? which is the center wire of the 3 prong cord. My new 4 prong cord has a black, red, white and green wire. Should I connect black to black, red to red? And white and green to the neutral? and what should I do with the ground jumper strap?
Yes, attach the black to black and red to red.
the white will be the attached to the neutral. The green of the cord should go to the ground strap.
You can leave the jumper and the the neutral's connected. Basically the ground and the white return to the ground. It would be best if you can attach the neutral to the white and make the ground a seperate connection from the ground strap to the green.
Dryer Wiring: Connecting 3-4 Cord
I just moved into a house with a four prong dryer receptacle. Unfortunately, my dryer cord is a 3 prong. I bought a new cord for my dryer, but am unsure how to connect the white and green wires to the terminal board. The existing wire has the white neutral connected to a blue wire running into the dryer, and to a green jumper to chassis ground. Should I disconnect the green jumper, and wire the new cord's green ground wire to chassis, and connect the white neutral to the blue wire running into the dryer, or connect some other way? My wife would really appreciate any help so she can take down the clothesline in the basement!
Yes.. from what you write, you are right. The green is the ground and should be connected to the ground to the chassis. The white being neutral goes to the blue and serves as the neutral for the 110 service in the dryer, (like the timer?)
Dryer Hookup: Connecting 4-3 Connector Cable
I just bought a used dryer and want to hook it up. My problem is the dryer has only three connects on the back without any color coding, how do I connect my four connector cable?
The cable is red-white-green-black.
The dryer is a 220 volt electric dryer (Kenmore). It looks like its about 5-8 years old. My house has a black four socket plug in the laundry room. The pig tail plug that came with the dryer has four different color connections. I'm not sure which connector goes where on the dryer.
You dryer probably has a standard 3 terminal block with posts and nuts. The right terminal and the left terminal are hot 115 volts each. the middle is neutral. There should be a separate ground wire connected to the cabinet. Check your wiring diagram to verify this info. Sounds like your plug is 4 round contacts with 1 neutral 1 ground and 2 115 volt. In your case the ground wire may be built into the plug. I believe you insert the plug in the outlet and twist it, right? To do this CORRECTLY you need to locate the wiring diagram inside the dryer and see what where each color goes. Then, use a volt meter to determine the two hot leads and the neutral lead on the wall outlet. Be careful to set the meter to volts. The green wire is usually always the ground wire. Anything else is dangerous guessing. If all this sounds too complicated you will have to call a Tech.
Ever Popular Dryer Wiring: 4 vs 3
Just moved into a new place that has one of the 4 hole dryer outlets. My Maytag 220V dryer has 3 prongs. Can I buy an adapter?
Don't think you'll find an adapter for your plug. You can pick up a new plug at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. Just remove the old three-wire cord from the dryer, and hook up the new one. Black to where the black wire came from, red to red, etc. The left- over wire (Should be green) is connected to the chassis of your dryer. Depending upon the dryer's age, you'll probably find a green colored screw located near the wiring block on the dryer. That's where your fourth wire goes. It's really an added ground. Almost all Electrical codes are now going to the 4-wire system.
Actually, from a code stand point, I don't think this is the whole story..... The advent of the 4 wire system for 220 VAC is predicated on the use of 110 devices within a 220 appliance (such as a dryer with timer that runs on 110VAC). Without a fourth wire to act independently as a ground, the neutral in a three wire 220 system acts as a conductor for the 110 VAC device (in this case, the timer and the motor). Because of this, the ground is actually conducting electricity rather than acting as a ground. By utilizing a 4 wire system, there is a dedicated neutral and a dedicated ground that act independently. On something such as a water heater you won't see this; it is a strictly 220 VAC device with no ancillary 110 VAC devices that utilize the ground as a conductor.
Dryer: 4-Prong Plug, 3-Prong Outlet
I just moved, and the code for dryer receptacles is different where I moved to. I had a 4-prong plug, but the new place has a 3-prong receptacle. When I got the new plug, I found they don't color code the wires. I connected the three wires to the color coded wires in the dryer, figuring since they don't have a color code it couldn't matter which went where. The dryer runs, spins, but doesn't get very hot. Any ideas?
Well, it looks like you have 110 in there, but not 220 to the coil. Too bad you didn't mark the wires when you took the four wire off. But going from the two hot leads in your cord.. you have to go to the two leads going to the heating coil. Check all you voltages.. make sure you have 220 to the dryer coil wires...
The 4-Prong Question, Revisited
I just moved into a new manufactured home, bringing along my 5-year-old clothes dryer. The plug on my dryer has 3 prongs. However, the outlet on the wall is 4-pronged. Is there some kind of a converter that I can get, or will I need to hire an electrician to redo the outlet. Are the new dryers all 4-pronged?
The new dryers all have 4 prongs... there is an added measure of safety, they now include a ground wire. You can buy a new 4 prong cord for your dryer and wire it up, or have an electrician or appliance repairperson hook it up.
I want to move my washer and dryer approx. 10 ft in my basement. My problem is with the water spickets and the 220 volt outlet. is it possible to get a 10 foot 220 volt extension cord and is it ok to run 10 feet of hose from the water spickets to my washing machine ?? I was going to cut in new water pipes and re-run the 220 v outlet. But running an extension cord and hose extensions will definitely be cheaper and much less work. But is it safe ?
The hoses of course are no problem. As for the electric though.. you should have #10 wire. I have my doubts about finding an extension cord in #10 with 220 volt/30 amp ends. It may be worth is price-wise when you check into it to wire up the new outlet.. going from the old one. Using the old one just as a junction box.
Changing Dryer Belt
Has anyone ever changed a GE dryer belt?
Yup. And it isn't too hard. You have to lift the lid on the dryer and unscrew the front to get the drum out and the belt on, but it isn't too many screws or too difficult a job.
Venting a Dryer
I have a washer/dryer in the garage. The previous owner never bothered to vent it to the outside. Where can I obtain info on how to do this myself. I hesitate to start knocking holes in the walls without having a better idea asto what I'm doing.
What you will want to do is run as direct a path out as you can. With as few bends... and nothing to get the lint caught on.
If the dryer is next to an outside wall.. that is best.. straight out the back throught the wall via a metal duct the same diameter as the dryers opening..
Just to add one thing - stay away from the flexible non-metallic ducting. The stuff is a real fire hazard.
Dryer Vent in Attic?
Our dryer is located on an interior wall. The most aesthetic way to vent it would be straight up through a cabinet into the attic. My question is, how do I continue the vent once I reach the attic - through the roof straight up? With an elbow out to the side? Or should I just run the vent to the exterior wall and find some way to disguise it?
(The dryer is located in my kitchen.) Any detailed information on the best way to vent the dryer would be appreciated, as well as detailed instructions.
The BEST way to duct it, is horizontally outside by the shortest route possible. If you do need to go up to the attic, go horizontally straight as you can to an eave and vent down through the eave.
The lint that builds up will clog and cause the dryer to not work right and die an early death too.
Make sure you use duct that is the same size as the dryers outlet. And with no places for the lint to catch on and build up. And only use metal ducting.. no plastic.
Dryer Vent Doesn't Work
I live in a co-op apartment - 5 floor-through units in a brownstone. The building was converted into separate units in '89. I moved in 3 years ago to find that the dryer was not working. I had a repair person come and check it out. He discovered that the dryer was not getting air through the vent (the dryer vents to the roof). I purchased a lint-trapping kit for in-home exhausting of my dryer. The dryer works fine but my apartment steams up completely. The apartment above me also has the same problem. I have had several vent cleaning people come and look at the problem. They all say that there are several twists and turns in the vent and they can't maneuver around these turns. What can I do - the steam beginning to cause paint to peel and is really a nuisance. Short of going to the Laundromat, do I have any other options?
Are there any outside walls in your apartment? The best option would be to vent directly through the wall to the outside. Most likely you do not have the dryer anywhere near an outside wall, or this option would have been used.
Another option would be to vent down through the basement and out. Is your dryer on the ground floor with a basement under it?
I am thinking since you have had people look at your vent and not fix it, that it is a lost cause. The dryer exhaust is not that powerful and the lint will surely clog it again (if it ever worked).
What you do need to look for is the quickest path to an outside wall. Then have a vent installed in that path. Is this an option based on your apartment's set up?
Can I Use PVC When Installing Vent?
I have a new gas dryer, and I need to install a vent. Can 4" drainpipe PVC be used for the vent? Also, my preferred way to run it is down into the joist, then horizontal about five feet. Any problems with this?
The direction you want to run it is fine. (Always the fewer the bends and the most direct the better). BUT DO NOT USE PVC!! Only use metal duct. The PVC will build up a static charge. You can ask my Boy Scout sons that NOTHING starts fires as well as lint.
Flat Dryer Vent
Need a flat dryer vent. To reduce the space between the dryer and the wall vent.
Check the yellow pages for sheetmetal or ducting. A supplier will have just what you are looking for.
Can you tell me if it is ok to vent 2 dryers (gas) into 1 main vent line (metal)? We are concerned about heat with both running at the same time and also one venting back into the other with only one running.
It sounds just fine to do that.I would be concerned if it wasn't metal tubing. Try putting a one-way "flap" (like you have on the outside vent) on both dryer vents to prevent blowing into the each other when only one on. I'm pretty sure you can purchase these in-line "flaps" at large home centers or appliance suppliers.
Dryer Won't Make Sound or Act
I have a GE electric dryer. I get no sound or action from it at all. I hear a clicking when I push the door switch but that's about all. I get no sound or action from it at all. I hear a clicking when I push the door switch but that's about all.
I'd like to take a shot at it. There are several possibilities
1. The Door switch is no longer making internal contact to close the circuit to the timer-motor-wiring-harness etc. (Always disconnect the power cord before working on an appliance!!!)
2. The circuit breaker to the dryer is tripped-you reset it, if it trips again there is probably a short or ground in the appliance.
3. The Start switch on the console is defective, not starting the motor.
4. The Timer has a broken or burnt contact.
5. A wire to the motor is disconnected.
6. A wire is disconnected somewhere in the wiring harness.
7. The Pig tail or main heavy cord has a disconnected wire to the big prongs- no power to the dryer.
This may sound complicated to troubleshoot and it is for inexperienced people. You should buy a GE Repair manual if you are really handy.They are really great!
Dryer Won't Make Noise/Light
My admiral electric dryer has quit. Have replaced fuses, and have definitely have power going through pigtail.
Does not make any noise. The light is not working. Noise comes out of timer when start is pushed. Any suggestions?
Check safety switch inside door. Dryer won't start unless switch is engaging .
Whirlpool Dryer Won't Spin
Front loading whirlpool dryer. After closing door and pressing start you can hear a humming sound but the drum inside doesn't spin. It looks like there is a lot of play because I can take my hand and slide the drum back and forth it feels loose. Could whatever holds the drum in place and turns the drum have disconnected? How does this work and can I fix it?
Sounds like your drum belt is loose, worn or stretched. Or your idler pulley is broken. You can change these out yourself if you are so inclined. If this is your desire go to the "Virtual Repairman" at www.geocities.com/ResearchTriangle/835/index1.html This site has a step by step and visual for belt replacement.
Kenmore Dryer Won't Spin
My gas dryer stopped spinning. I took off the front plate to see if the belt was broken but it's still intact.
The motor makes a sound like it wants to spin but it won't turn. It's almost like something is jammed or is stopping it from turning. After trying to start it a few times, it shuts off completely. Then, if I wait a few minutes it resets and starts making noise again like it wants to work. Any idea what is wrong? It really seems like the motor wants to spin but something is stopping it. I am able to spin the dryer if I turn it by hand.
When you turn the drum over by hand, is the belt AND the motor turning or just the belt? Try removing the belt to see if the motor will turn when powered up. If not, or it starts very slowly, motor time.
One fast check for you to look at would be to make sure a small piece of clothing has not gotten caught in or around the rear of the motor or in the blower. If this is so, clear off any obstruction. The problem then, unfortunately is a motor replacement.
I agree, I had a Kenmore do this once. The windings in the motor were just worn out and the motor would hum or buzz but it couldn't turn the drum. You can turn the drum and the motor might be able to pull it some, but not for long. Unless it's extremely old or an unusual model, go to a local Sears and find out where the nearest outlet center is or see if they can order you a new one, I think mine cost $45.
Hot Point Dryer Won't Start/Runs Only Briefly
Dryer will not start, or when it does it will only run for a short time and then shut off.
A few things could be the problem.
1. Check your circuit breaker and make sure both breakers are not tripped. If they continue to do so then you have a problem with wiring in the circuit or in the dryer.
2. Check the door switch and if it is working properly.
3. Your start switch may need to be replaced.
4. Disconnect your power; remove the back cover of the dryer and check for loose and/or burned wiring connections.
5. While you're there, check your thermostat and that it is functioning and connected properly.
Dryer Flips Circuit Breaker
Dryer is wired to two 20 amp breakers and only one flips. (That's why it spins but no longer heats?) Works well when breaker is reset sometimes for an hour, sometimes only ten minutes. Should I install double breaker?
The dryer should be (typically) wired with 10/3 conductor & 30 amp breakers; the 20 amp breakers are not adequate for the load of an electric dryer. Problem is, if the breakers are 20 amp, the wire may be 12 gauge-which is inadequate for a 30 amp circuit. If you're not familiar with wiring and the attendant requirements, you may want to have this checked out by a qualified electrician.
Check your wiring.. it should be 10/3. If it is, replace the breakers with a double 30 amp breaker. If it is not, then chances are you will need to replace that wire and the breaker to eliminate the problem.
Clothes Getting Black Burn Marks When Dried
I have a GE heavy duty dryer (not commercial) that is leaving small burn marks on my white clothes. I have been told online that it is probably the temperature regulator or something like that. Where is it located exactly? On the drum? How can I tell it from the other wire parts connected to the drum? What color wire is attached to it? Are all GE temp regulators compatible? Help me, my wife is getting UPSET.
I've seen this before on GEs. The burn marks in my case were due to a worn drum and other parts that allowed the clothes to get caught between the drum and drum face. This can be a big job requiring the machine to be dismantled to find the offending parts.
Whirlpool Electric Dryer Shaking, Eating and Burning Clothes
I have had my dryer for several years and have never experienced any problems. About 4 months ago it started making a rumbling and shaking sound as if it was unbalanced. I had it looked at and they could not troubleshoot the problem .
It works fine, however, now it is eating my clothes there appears to be a gap about and inch wide between the drum and where it is supposed to meet up. My clothes get stuck in the gap and burn up and have large holes or tears. I cannot seem to figure out how the heck to get in that area to find the problem. Help!!!
It sounds to me like the rollers the drum rolls on are shot. That would explain both the rumbling and the misalignment.
They can be replaced by you, or you can have it done. The parts are quite inexpensive. (the labor of course is another thing...ask for an estimate).
To replace the rollers, you would need to open the dryers up and remove the drum. It might be a good idea to replace the belt while you are in there.
Converting Gas Dryer to LP Gas
New dryer installation in home had home plumbed for LP gas need info on change over from natural gas to LP gas kit not supplied with dryer I want to pick up all needed parts for installer from gas company to save expense of mark up.
You can get a kit at local appliance supply house, with installation manuals.
Electric Drier Not Getting Power
Drier is not getting power. Checked outlet with small two wire power tester. No light. My question is "How do I know that the prongs are long enough to make contact inside of the receptacle? Also, if it is the receptacle and the breaker switch is not tripped how can I tell which end of the connection is faulty? In the box or the receptacle? Also, how can the power be turned of to repair the breaker. Also, the wiring in the drier looks fine as far as I can see. How can I check the wires in the drier?
For safety reasons I have to say to use caution..
First off.. the tester. Try the tester in an outlet that you know works. You can almost see the metal conductor in the outlet if you look in, and you just need to touch them, just inside the plastic face to check. You should get a light with the tester going between any two holes except the middle two (if there are two in the middle) Those are both connected to ground and there will be no voltage across them. However, between the two outside ones you will get a bright light, and between an outside on and the middle, you will get a light.. but dimmer. (between the two outside ones is 220V, between an outside and the middle is 110V)
Ok... IF the outlet is NOT getting power... and the breaker is closed, you would need to determine what is at fault. I don't think it is any more likely that it is the breaker or the outlet.. To check the outlet you would check for voltage right on the wire connected to the breaker.. between it and ground. Power can be secured to the breaker by opening the main breaker that feeds the whole box. But, remember the power leads coming in to the box are still live.. and exposed. If you are not familiar with working in the breaker box, have an electrician check the breaker and replace it if necessary.
Gas Dryer Thermo Fuse and Disc Repair Issues
This one is kinda long and a two-fold problem. I have a whirlpool gas dryer that is at least 10 years old. Recently, I had the middle temp. thermostat changed because it was getting too hot. The guy put in a lower temp thermostat and a new roller. When I used my dryer, I found the hot setting worked, but no heat on the middle temp...So I put in the old thermostat, and it didn't work either, so I ruled out the possibility of a defective thermostat and started checking the 3-way switch. The switch was working fine, but then I accidentally created a short btw switch and machine while testing it....After the sparks flew, the machine was still running. I stopped it, checked for burned wires and switch was still good. Plugged in, and it ran fine on high heat, but stopped after bit on medium, and wouldn't start again. The wall outlet is fine and breaker never got tripped. Only thing more I tested was thermo-fuse continuity, and it's open. So maybe I need to replace thermofuse, but then I still need to know how to fix the first problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
First you have to replace the thero fuse, second which was the first problem, when you say med. heat I take you mean you mean the permanent press cycle. The thermo disc replace was only for the reg. cycle, there should also be a mid. range thermo thero disc with 3 wires. This thero disc is the one that sense the moisture and adjusts your temp accordingly, Remove and have tested. Again depending on your model, in back of your console there may be a resister, these resisters also control your the med. heat. If there isn't the 3 wire thero on your model check for this resister.
The inside of my dryer is rusty and staining my clothes. Is there a special paint I can use to fix this problem?
You might want to try an 'engine enamel' from an auto parts store, which can withstand temperatures of many hundreds of degrees...
Clothes dryer door won't stay shut
Subject line about says it all. The door pops open, and of course, the dryer then turns off.
You wouldn't be my wife, would you? (She has been complaining about the same thing on our dryer) What WE need to do is fix or replace that catch. In my case, it is a plastic insert. A trip to the appliance repair parts store should get me a new one. Let's hope.
Maytag Inside Access
How do I "pop the top" of a Maytag dryer to check why it rattles?
From the front, slide the tip of a regular screwdriver into the crack where the top meets the base and pry it up. First one front corner then the other. It should pop up.
Kenmore 700 Series Dryer Blowing Breaker
I keep blowing my breaker that supplies my dryer. I have checked the heating coil and it seems to be in good repair (no breaks or touching the side). One thing that is interesting is that the timer does not turn. You can set it and start the cycle but it does not move. And about five minutes later ... there goes the breaker. Any help? PLEASE!
Replace the timer. It appears to be defective.
Maytag Dryer Error Code?
My 1986 sg-1000 Gas Dryer works OK but recently it shuts down and displays a "6E" error indicator! To reset it, I must un-plug it and it works fine for a couple of loads. Anybody know what "6E" means?
Go to www.matag.com. There is an FAQ site there and 1-800 numbers for USA and Canada.
Click here for our Dryer Preventative Maintenance Article
Click here for our Grounding Your Outlets Article
Click here for our Appliance Tips Article
Click here for our Installation Tips Article